It was during a particularly gruelling session at one of the
emergency summits held to keep the Eurozone from falling apart that –
for a very brief moment – Christine Lagarde appeared to be on the verge
of losing her famous composure. But then something stirred in the IMF
chief and she reached up to unknot her watercolour scarf, releasing it
in one deft movement so it fell loosely over her right shoulder and hung
down to her waist.
By liberating herself of a physically
confining accessory which has also become her trademark, Lagarde was
able to signal a turning point in the conversation toward a more frank,
inclusive tone – in some way akin to a man loosening his necktie or
rolling up his shirt sleeves in order to show he's ready to ‘get down to
business'. As if on cue, the ministers who had been looking cheerless
suddenly rallied around her and the conversation became upbeat and
animated. At a summit where the mood had descended into collective
despair, the scarf's reinvention as a distinguished sash reasserted
Lagarde’s authority as a leader.
Although making such profound
conclusions from a humble piece of cloth may sound fanciful, there are
reasonable grounds when the wearer is Christine Lagarde. For eight years
– first as a high-ranking minister in the French cabinet and now at the
helm of the IMF – Lagarde has relied heavily on scarves to add a
distinctive touch to her political uniform.
So central has the
scarf become to her signature style that it is on those rare occasions
she's not wearing one when Lagarde appears to be really making a
statement. At last year's Berlin summit, when she met with the heads of
the other major international financial institutions including the
World Bank, the WTO and OECD, her neck looked practically naked despite
the heavy grey pearls that swayed under it. Scarfless in a sleek
matching grey suit, she looked exceptionally poised and alert at a time
when the precariousness of the global economy was once again threatening
to undermine her authority.
In the loop
When
Lagarde first moved from a career in international law to politics, a
bright and strategically-placed scarf helped her cultivate a bolder,
more relaxed image than many of her peers. Depending on its colour,
pattern, length and how you wear it, a scarf can be bourgeois or
bohemian, sensible or romantic, timeless or nostalgic. Her clever use
of this ambiguous and adaptable accessory has been as persuasive as it
has been prolific: a powerful tool to fine-tune her outfits of sleek
tailoring and fastidiously elegant skirt suits.
Twisted, folded,
wrapped into a garment, looped, double knotted or even intertwined with a
string of pearls, Lagarde finds countless ways to emphasise her
individuality through scarves. She has been able to subtly suggest a
nonconformist streak in her personality and perhaps in her political
beliefs. Something as seemingly inconsequential as a silk scarf with
one side draped longer than the other, for instance, speaks volumes
about political figures like Lagarde because asymmetry is not part of
their conventional style template.
On the other hand, the outfits
favoured by Lagarde are entirely age-appropriate – a cardinal rule in
the political realm. She is obviously not out to break any taboos.
Instead, she adds a flourish of humanity, femininity and personality to
her streamlined, usually monochrome wardrobe of flattering but rather
unexceptional attire with her printed neckerchiefs, supple pashminas or
ribbon bows. The overall effect is that she looks unfussy but somehow
still memorable, classy and dignified.
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