More than two years after protesters toppled Hosni Mubarak, Cairo is
still ablaze with fiery visual reminders of Egypt’s revolution. On the
edge of Tahrir Square – the nerve centre of dissent – the burned-out
tower block that once housed the headquarters of Mubarak’s National
Democratic Party stands blackened and empty. It forms a jarring
juxtaposition with the coral-pink walls of the Egyptian Museum, the
dusty storehouse of the country’s most precious antiquities, next door.
Around
the corner, there is a different kind of monument to the revolution.
Mohamed Mahmoud Street – which intersects with Tahrir Square from the
east – is as colourful and vibrant as the sombre hulk of the NDP
building is charred. Almost every square centimetre of the walls that
flank the street has been covered with bright, cacophonous paint. These
murals are some of the best examples of the inimitable street art
movement that has flourished since the protests against Mubarak began.
“There
was very little street art in Egypt before the revolution,” says Mia
Gröndahl, a writer and photographer who has lived in Cairo since 2001,
and whose book Revolution Graffiti: Street Art of the New Egypt
was published in the UK last month. “So few pieces, in fact, that
people weren’t aware of it. But Egypt had the artists waiting to come
out of the closet and express themselves honestly and politically.”
Most
of these artists were forged in the fire of the 18-day demonstrations
against Mubarak in early 2011, when at least 846 people were killed.
Emboldened by the ferocity of the protesters, several artists started
painting slogans and murals commenting upon the tumultuous events that
were convulsing their country. While other young protesters hurled
bricks, Egypt’s fledgling street artists picked up paintbrushes and
spray cans. “By the summer of 2011,” Gröndahl writes in her book,
“people [had] started to talk about the walls of Egypt being under an
‘art attack’.”
Mad graffiti weekend
Two
years ago this month, during a collaborative event known as the “Mad
Graffiti Weekend”, Ganzeer, a graphic designer, created an unforgettable
stencilled mural of a large tank aiming its cannon at a boy on a
bicycle who is balancing a tray of bread upon his head. Over time, the
mural was added to, retouched, painted over and defaced, in response to
events such as the “Maspero Massacre” of October 2011, when security
forces and the army killed more than 25 Egyptian Copts who were
peacefully protesting about the destruction of a church.
One
memorable character to appear on the wall – a pot-bellied panda bear
with drooping shoulders and a melancholy expression – has disappeared
beneath subsequent layers of paint. Despite this, though, the Sad Panda,
a resigned witness to ongoing mayhem that has since appeared on various
walls around Cairo, has become one of the most recognisable visual
motifs in the country’s new lexicon of street art. His negative body
language offers a kind of pacifist rebuke to the violence and
uncertainty that have engulfed Egypt since 2011.
“People in Egypt
love street art,” Gröndahl tells me. “There is an old heritage of
expressing yourself in images here, so they are no strangers to it. It
has become an integrated part of the continuous struggle for freedom.
The graffiti reminds people that the revolution isn’t over yet.”
Revolution
Graffiti documents the urgency and self-confidence of contemporary
Egyptian street art. Most of the images reproduced in the book make the
work of celebrated British graffiti artists such as Banksy appear
insipid by comparison. Street art, by definition, should be by the
people, for the people: in Egypt it has proved a strident yet eloquent
instrument of protest.
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